I have one very similar but it must be alittle later, mine has Brunner Decals on the tank, guage even the motor tag. Instead of the Century motor mine has a Westinghouse motor. Does yours have a switch or does it just plug in and run until it trips the relief valve?
Its a neat little thing for sure. I have been working on putting it back to period correct getting rid of the modern on off switch that was added I found an early motor starter switch that looks right with it and the modern tank valve is next to get replaced - Post added at 07:22:53 AM - Previous post was at 07:19:16 AM.
I also have an old Brunner Compressor. The last patent date on the Brunner Tagged Westinghouse 3/4hp motor is 1919. This is my first post I will try to add some images here.
When last running this unit was fully functional. Sounded like a sewing machine! All original. Brass valves are marked Brunner and the valve handles have capital B's cast in them. Any info would be much appreciated. I think this is the hardest thing I have ever tried to research.
Have never found much at all. You can tell a good quality product when they stamp their name all over it on every part. I have a couple Brunner compressors. I am fairly sure but not positive the company still exists but i think its just making air tanks.
First of I really need some more info. Model and serial # on tag on compressor.Does this up6 have a controller on it. First of all the unit will not load unless it has enough air pressure to open the inlet valve. Is the unit in modulation. If so you need to switch it to on/off line then start. If in modulation and the system/tank is empty there is no air pressure to operate the modulation feature. I would start by switching it to on/ off line first.
After started and air in system you can switch to modulation and the unit will operate fine as long as there is air in the tank/ system. Jun 22, 2011. There are two types of unloaders used on IR compressors.
One is oil pressure controlled, and second is manually activated for starting. According to the photo and model number provided, yours is manually operated. Follow air line from compressor to tank. The pilot valve (brass valve) between airline and tank is a multi-function component. There is a flip leaver or pull ring w/ hold that unloads the compressor by venting air thru small muffler.
The valve also contains the check-valve holding pressure in the tank, a means of adjusting pressure and controlls throttle for engine. For easy start, flip leaver upright and start; to run, flip leaver to right angle of stem. Nov 19, 2010.
The Brunner Company is one of the best 'old' commpressor compaanies who were making compressors/pumps during and since WWII. Some of their refrigeration and pressure compressors were in fact used on our Naval ships. Seems like Brunner sold out to the Dunham Bush company about 1950 or so.
These are called 'recriprocating-type (open type) compressors. Believe it or not, I come across some of the original 'Brunners' still in operation (refrigeration) on milk tanks. Parts for the Brunners are still available. Shaft seals, etc.
Probably have to use the name 'Dunham Bush' though at some refrigeration supply houses, though. Expect to spend lots of $$$$$ for parts. However, sometimes it is necessary to rebuild the compressors than completely change the milk tank since the tank is probably us'n R-12 as the refrigerant. I just gave a 3 hsp. Dunham Bush (Brunner) to a farmer in upstate PA to use as an aircompressor. Replacement equipment cost the farmer about $12,000.00. He had to replace the tank with a pre-owned one.
Hope this helps, somehow. Right now, my compressor has a 16 inch pully and the motor pully is 4.5 my motor rpm is 1725 so that means the pump is going at 490 which I still think is slow, when I got the compressor it was running at 375 rpm which was really slow for me, I just put a bigger pully on the motor and I pump it up to 150 psi, seems to go good now, I dont think Im going to go anymore than that.
Kicks in at about 120 PSI and turns off at 150. Takes about 2-3 mins to pump that, and I find the air lasts along time.
I acquired an old compressor from a coworker for free the other day. I don't know much about it other than what the tank model plate says. It says it's a model c102.40-a and for parts contact simpson. The tank is rated for 200psi and is a 1956. It was run with no air filter for who knows how long in a shop.
The motor says 3/4hp and is old. It spools up and the pump spins fine. I have a cracked manifold that comes off the tank where the relief valve, pressure guage, check valve all join together off the tank. I don't know the correct term for that part, but I need to order it. The drain petcock in the bottom of the tank is seized too. There is a copper line that is disconnected that runs from the tank to the check valve I believe. I think I need to hook this up, but my coworker said he never did and he ran it.
He did mention it would kick his breaker out in his shop. This disconnected line might be the culprit. I'm hoping to use it to run some air tools. My coworker said it built pressure fine. I'll use a ball peen hammer on the tank and look for soft spots. Anyone know what this compressor is, and what it might put out cfm wise?
Some things come to mind when you say the breaker trips. When the compressor starts from empty, there is no pressure in the tank or the compressor itself. Once the tank is up to pressure, the solenoid in the control box will shut the compressor off and the unloader will open. The unloader is important.
If the compressor doesn't unload, then the next start up the compressor will have the same pressure as the tank and will use too much power to try and operate and will over amp and trip the breaker. There are a few culprits to this. First is the check valve being worn and backflowing from the tank to the compressor.
You will hear the unloader constantly hissing until the compressor starts back up, then trip. Just replace the entire check valve, usually about $12. Second is the unloader line is blocked. This is a smaller line coming off of the middle of the check valve that goes in to the control box.
Just remove it from the control box and check valve, and blow through it to see if it's blocked. If it is, either clean it out, or make a new one. The last, and more expensive thing is the control box. If it is malfunctioning and not unloading the compressor, then either tinker with it and see if you can make it work, or just get a new one. They are pretty much universal, some have more options than others.
Personally, I don't think it's the control box. I think it is one of the first two, or a combination of the first two. And very importantly, get a guard for those moving parts. You dont need it starting up on someone who is too close to it and get a body part lacerated. Good luck with this, and if you need any more help diagnosing it, let me know. No I haven't run it yet for more than 5 seconds.
I'm on dad duty most of the time looking after my daughter while the wife is at work, so it's been hard. I have to install the belt and I'll fire it up and time it.
It has a leaky manifold, it's cracked. My friend who's a machinist, is going to make me a new one. I'm going to hook up the one way check valve line too.
I'm pretty sure it's the original motor and compressor head. It's not a refridgeration compressor.
Thanks for the help guys. I'll report back once I get it up and running.
I was hoping it woud do more than 8cfm at 90psi. I just ran the compressor. I opened up the drain petcock on the bottom of the tank and approximately 400ml of water came out, and also 400ml of rusty oil.
I'm not sure if oil is getting from the pump to the tank, or if the previous owner dumped some oil in the tank. With a cracked manifold it took 12 minutes to get to 90psi. Terribly slow in my opinion.
When I have my hand next to the discharge it feels as though it's pushing as much air as my makita mac2400. This thing might need a pump service- valve or reed replacement. I've never done this before. I might have to make new gaskets when I dismantle the pump, because I doubt I'll be able to buy them with it being this old. It may be 2 cylinders, but it is still a single stage pump. Even with a valve and ring tune up, you will still have a slow pressure building pump.
I hope your intention was not to think you can run high demand air tools. It will still may be great rig for the everyday tire air ups or impact gun use. I would like to see that you do the hydro test before you start dropping a bunch of money into it. If the tank is bad, it will get spendy. In addition inspect/test/replace the pressure relif valve. They are pretty cheap, so just replace it is a good practice. I love seeing old stuff being return to duty, but just make sure it is done safely.
I can picture it now, new paint job to match your shop and wireing and you will have a winner.
:: Author Message RXN New User Joined: 10 Aug 2016 Posts: 3 Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2016 3:16 pm Post subject: Brunner A-514 Air compressor Wow is this frustrating. I bought a Air compressor and 80 Gal tank from a co-worker. He bought it years ago, and never hooked it up because it was missing the motor. I thought this would be easy. So after wasting close to 3hrs on line I learnt I have a Brunner Model A-514, Type 671MJFO, Serial No.
C77F033 I've found out it is a 184T frame, 230Volts. What I need to know, is the HP and RPM so I can get the proper sized motor and drive sheave. Thanks in advance for any help. Ryan Dusty MI Tractor Expert Joined: 17 Dec 2000 Posts: 2051 Location: Lansing MI. Area Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2016 4:38 pm Post subject: Re: Brunner A-514 Air compressor Do a little shopping and see what would be on a similar compressor. Dusty Dusty MI Tractor Expert Joined: 17 Dec 2000 Posts: 2051 Location: Lansing MI. Area Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2016 4:38 pm Post subject: Re: Brunner A-514 Air compressor Do a little shopping and see what would be on a similar compressor.
Dusty Dusty MI Tractor Expert Joined: 17 Dec 2000 Posts: 2051 Location: Lansing MI. Area Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2016 4:39 pm Post subject: Re: Brunner A-514 Air compressor Do a little shopping and see what would be on a similar compressor. Dusty GarryinNC Long Time User Joined: 04 Mar 2008 Posts: 1196 Location: Davie County,NC Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2016 5:18 pm Post subject: Re: Brunner A-514 Air compressor Just going on what I have learned messing with compressors over the years, if it is a two cylinder-two stage pump, it probably needs at least a 'real' 5hp motor. A 184t frame, 5hp, 1725-1740 rpm. The pump probably needs to turn around 700-800 rpm max.
If one cylinder is bigger than the other, it is a two stage, as you probably know. A new, name brand, motor like that is in the $400-$500 range. I see that The Surplus Center has a Leeson for a little over $500. Good used 5hp single phase motors are very hard to find.
3 phase, no problem. Garry Steve@Advance Tractor Guru Joined: 12 Nov 2013 Posts: 10674 Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2016 8:15 pm Post subject: Re: Brunner A-514 Air compressor Is there any evidence if it was equipped with a 3 phase or single phase motor, as in the wiring, controls? The largest 184 frame 3 phase motor is 7 1/2 HP. The largest single phase is 5 HP. The motor RPM will be in the 1700-1740 range. The compressor RPM varies by manufacturer, but typically they run in the 700-800 RPM range.
That you don't know what the recommended HP/RPM specifically is, you could take a chance, make an educated guess, go with a variable pitch sheave so you could fine tune it. A properly configured compressor will run right at the rated motor FLA (full load amps). Be sure the compressor is healthy though before making an adjustment.
If the valves are carboned up or leaking, you won't get a good reading. John,PA Regular Joined: 21 Jun 2014 Posts: 407 Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2016 2:27 am Post subject: Re: Brunner A-514 Air compressor AH, a great old piece of equipment. The BRUNER co.
Made refrigeration units that were on board SHIPS during the time of the N's series of tractors. Later DUNHAM BUSH was the name on the compressor 'racks'. You will need a magnetic STARTER for the 71/2 hsp motor. Probably 3 phase. Only difference is if you find a 3 phase motor, your single phase requirements may exceed the wiring in your shop. Lots of times single phase is all there is.
Old Brunner Air Compressor
If on single phase, you can start the motor by 'kick start' to get her goi'N. Then the motor will take over and keep turning until the starter trips off on overload.
Motors are avail. For single phase. Will require 40 - 50 amps of juice along with some sort of starter, if the motor is not split phase with lots of capacitors. By adjusting the pulleys the compressor will turn at various RPM's. We used the adjustments to make a refrigeration system perform for either freezer, regular temp. Range (35 deg.) or on board airconditioning.
Ford fiesta 1998 manual taller. Usually the compressors ran 24 hrs. A day, once started-up. And they used valves to make lots of equipment work, individually. BRUNER, DUNHAM BUSH.
Windsor Locks, CONN. USA CURRENTLY.
John,PA RXN New User Joined: 10 Aug 2016 Posts: 3 Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2016 3:33 am Post subject: Re: Brunner A-514 Air compressor Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. I will look into the 5hp single phase with variable sheave. Hd6gtom Tractor Guru Joined: 20 Jan 2011 Posts: 4154 Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2016 6:39 am Post subject: Re: Brunner A-514 Air compressor RXN If you get a 5hp single phase motor made for an air compressor you should be ok, providing you are going to run single phase. Make sure it is for an air compressor there is a difference. If someone tells you there is no difference between a regular motor and a compressor motor - They don't know what they are talking about.
As far as the pulley there should be a tag on the compressor somewhere telling you how fast the pump turns, compute the motor RPM's vs the compressor RPM's to get the size pulley you need. RXN New User Joined: 10 Aug 2016 Posts: 3 Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2016 10:10 am Post subject: Re: Brunner A-514 Air compressor I'm missing tags. Just has the model typeople and serial numbers on it.which makes it difficult.
The driven sheave is 18'OD And I got numbers off after it. Sounds like I should be aiming to hit 800-900 RPM on the compressor. Evilboweivel Long Time User Joined: 30 Apr 2010 Posts: 1103 Location: Lancaster, Ohio Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2016 10:28 am Post subject: Re: Brunner A-514 Air compressor i would probably buy this motor 00518os1ccd184t/i/G4270822/ with a variable sheave 9' and smaller good luck Ron Hobo,NC Tractor Guru Joined: 14 Jun 2007 Posts: 17177 Location: Sanford,NC Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2016 10:30 am Post subject: Re: Brunner A-514 Air compressor 18' is a monster. A continuations duty are farm duty 5hp should run it if it don't you can always slow it down to were it will. I have a 27 CFM with a 7 1/2 HP motor 7 1/2 motors single phase are out there. The most aggravating part of a compressor is the provision to adjust the belts. I have modified mine its still a project I plan to make a mount for the motor to make it EZ to adjust and align the belts.
GarryinNC Long Time User Joined: 04 Mar 2008 Posts: 1196 Location: Davie County,NC Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2016 4:46 pm Post subject: Re: Brunner A-514 Air compressor You might consider a WEG brand motor. They are made in Brazil and a local compressor shop sells compressors (also made in Brazil) with these motors, and from what I hear, they are giving good service. I see that Grainger is selling WEG brand now.
They may not be much, if any, cheaper than other brands. Just an option. Garry jacks Regular Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 328 Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2016 1:51 pm Post subject: Re: Brunner A-514 Air compressor I bought an old Brunner compressor and tank with no motor years ago. Mine had a large single cylinder compressor. From my research, I found that it was intended to run at 500-600 rpm.
I set it up in that range and it was almost too many RPMs, as the whole 80 gallon horizontal tank would move around on the floor due to the vibration. If it is a one cylinder I think you need to stay in the 500-600 range, a two cylinder should be better balanced and be able to run at 700- 800.
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